Hard Case With Foam: Pluck, Convoluted or Solid Sheet?

A hard case with foam can use four kinds of insert: pluck (pre-cubed) foam, convoluted "egg crate" foam, solid sheet foam you cut yourself, or machine-cut foam (CNC or laser-cut). For camera gear that stays the same from shoot to shoot, solid sheet foam cut to shape gives the tightest fit and lasts the longest. Pluck foam is fastest on day one but loosens over time, and convoluted foam belongs in the lid, pressing down. Here is how each behaves and when to use it.

What the foam is actually doing

The shell of a hard case keeps out water, dust and crushing loads. The foam has a different job: it stops your gear from moving, and it absorbs the energy that gets through the shell when the case is dropped or thrown onto a baggage belt.

That means the foam needs to do three things well:

• Hold each item still, so nothing can build up speed inside the case and hit a wall or another item.
• Leave a cushion on every side, ideally at least 20 mm between the item and the shell, and between neighbouring items.
• Keep its shape for years of packing and unpacking, in heat and humidity.

Different foam types trade these off against speed and cost.

The foam types

Pluck foam (pre-cubed)

A block of foam pre-cut into small cubes that stay joined at the base. You press your gear on top, mark the outline, and pull out the cubes inside it.

• Good: no tools, quick to set up, easy to learn.
• Not so good: the pocket is made of square steps, so round lenses and curved grips never touch the foam evenly. The thin walls between pockets tear with use, and cubes can work loose and fall out. Small items like batteries or cards can slip into gaps.
• Use it for: kits that change often, or a first layout you plan to redo later.

Convoluted foam (egg crate)

Foam with a wavy, peaked surface. It is not meant to hold gear in pockets. Its job is to press down gently on whatever is below, filling small gaps and stopping items lifting out of their pockets when the case is upside down.

• Good: adapts to uneven tops, spreads pressure, light.
• Not so good: on its own it does not stop sideways movement.
• Use it for: the lid. Almost always.

Solid sheet foam, cut by you

Flat sheets of foam, stacked to the depth of the case base. You trace each item and cut its exact outline, then remove the foam to the depth you need. You can cut different depths for different items by cutting through some sheets and not others.

• Good: the tightest fit you can get at home. Walls stay strong because they are solid, not cubed. Round and curved shapes get round and curved pockets. It lasts for years.
• Not so good: takes more time and a steady hand. A mistake is permanent, so measure twice.
• Use it for: any kit that stays the same: a camera body and its regular lenses, a drone, a gimbal, a lens case.

CNC cut foam

Foam cut by a machine from a digital layout. The result is crisp, perfectly sized pockets, often with finger slots and labels.

• Good: the best finish and repeatability. Ideal when you need several identical cases.
• Not so good: needs an accurate layout drawing, takes longer to arrive, and costs more. Any change to the kit means a new insert.
• Use it for: rental houses, production companies and anyone kitting out multiple cases the same way.

Laser-cut premium foam

A laser-cut insert is cut to an exact outline for each item in your kit, so every pocket matches the gear rather than a hand-traced line. It is the premium option when you want a precise fit without cutting foam yourself.

• Good: clean, accurate pockets for irregular shapes like gimbals, drones and rigged cameras. No tools or practice needed on your side.
• Not so good: the layout is fixed, so a big change to your kit means a new insert.
• Use it for: expensive or awkwardly shaped gear, and kits that will not change for a long time.

Side by side

What comes in a Vantage case

Every Case Kavach Vantage case ships with solid foam sheets, a snap-off foam cutter and convoluted foam fitted in the lid. It is not pluck foam. That is a deliberate choice: solid sheets let you cut a proper, long lasting layout for your own kit, and the lid foam holds everything down.

If you would rather not cut it yourself, ShutterBuzz also makes custom laser-cut premium foam inserts on request. Send us your case size and gear list through the Hard Case Size Finder page, which has WhatsApp and email contact, and we will work out the layout with you.

The base and lid depths matter when you plan layers. The Vantage 225, for example, is 300 x 225 x 132 mm inside, split into a 99 mm base and a 33 mm lid. Your gear sits in the base foam, and the lid foam presses down from above. The Vantage 350 splits 136 mm base and 58 mm lid, and the lens-focused Vantage 230 has a 212.5 mm base with a 47.5 mm lid, deep enough to stand zoom lenses upright.

Combining foam types

The best inserts usually mix types rather than using just one:

• Solid base, convoluted lid. The standard layout. Gear locked into cut pockets below, lid foam holding it in place from above.
• Stepped depths. Cut a camera body pocket through three sheets, a battery row through two and a card slot through one. Everything sits flush at the top, so the lid foam presses evenly.
• A solid top sheet over a cut layer. For small parts, cut the pockets in the lower sheets and lay one uncut sheet on top before the lid. Nothing can climb out.
• Pluck insert for the odds and ends. If you do have pluck foam, use a small block of it for a corner that holds changing accessories, and solid foam for the main gear.

Cutting solid foam well

1. Lay out every item first on the top sheet, leaving at least 20 mm between items and from each edge.
2. Trace with a marker held upright, so the line follows the real outline and not a shadow.
3. Cut just inside the line. Foam compresses, so a slightly smaller pocket grips better.
4. Keep the blade vertical and cut in several shallow passes rather than one deep push.
5. Add finger slots beside anything you need to lift out.
6. Test fit, then trim. You can always take more away.

Our full walkthrough is in how to cut foam for a camera case at home. For choosing between cut-to-fit and CNC for a whole kit, see custom hard case foam.

Looking after foam

• Keep it dry. Foam holds moisture. After a wet shoot, take the gear out, open the case and let the foam air dry before sealing it again.
• Keep it clean. Sand and grit in a pocket end up on your lens barrels. Shake the foam out or vacuum it gently.
• Check fit every few months. Foam relaxes slightly over time. If an item starts to move, add a thin shim of foam to the pocket.
• Recut the insert, keep the case. When your kit changes, cut a new layout. The shell does not need replacing because the gear inside did.

The shell itself does its part: Vantage cases are IP67 rated, dust-tight and protected against immersion to 1 metre for 30 minutes, and carry a 5 year warranty.

Frequently asked questions

Is pluck foam bad for cameras?
Not bad, but less precise. It holds square items well and round ones poorly, and its thin walls wear out. For a kit that stays the same, solid foam cut to shape is better.

What goes in the lid of a hard case?
Convoluted, egg crate style foam. It presses down on the gear below and stops it lifting out of its pockets.

Can I replace the foam later?
Yes. Foam is the part of a hard case you expect to recut or replace as your kit changes. The shell lasts much longer.

How deep should the foam under my camera be?
At least 20 mm of solid foam under every item, and 20 mm on every side.

For the full picture on choosing a case, read the hard case for camera buying guide. To check which size your layout needs, use the Hard Case Size Finder, then pick from our waterproof hard cases, or start with the single-body Vantage 225.